-40%
10+ Rare Variety GINGER RED Old English BANTAM chicken fertile hatching eggs
$ 6.85
- Description
- Size Guide
Description
You are bidding on 10+ rare GINGER RED Old English Game Bantam chicken fertile hatching eggs.GORGEOUS UNCOMMON COLOR…..RARELY SEEN….ALMOST NEVER AVAILABLE!!!!
I have a small flock of the GINGER RED variety of Old English Game Bantam chickens.
I keep them around just for yucks and the “Hillbilly Ambience” that they bring to the back yard.
Quite frankly, I find them to be beautifully colored birds, and I enjoy the fact that they are not a color of Old English Game Bantams that are frequently seen. They definitely are “chicken eye candy”.
I have been working on establishing my flock for 4 seasons now, and I am very happy with the quality of the birds in my pens. (Note: I do not claim in anyway that they are show quality). I have not shown birds myself for over two decades now. However, I acquired my foundation birds from the pens of a 4H member who was very serous about his 4H project. I have been selectively breeding and culling from his established bloodline.
This color variety of Old English is gorgeous (just look at my pictures). Ginger Reds are difficult to find in my neck of the woods. The swap meets tend to have a plethora of Black Breasted Red Old English, but rarely do I see the Ginger Breasted Reds. That is why I did not have to “phone a friend” or “use a lifeline” when I was offered these beautiful birds. I snagged them hands down!
Old English tend to be scrappy little chickens. Not only are they tough and winter hardy, but they hold their own with other chickens. You should not have much trouble mixing them in with your other larger birds if that is your intention. I have read on the internet how roosters can be overly aggressive. I have not found that to be the case. I raise my cockerels together and as long as I have enough ladies, the boys fall right in line.
My Ginger Reds are very smart and personable chickens. Check out the images of them “sitting on the old man’s lap”! They definitely are characters and make interesting pets. Mine quickly learned to come when I call (as long as I had some scratch grain in my pocket to reinforce the experience!)
I read on line that they don’t do well confined. Again….I have to disagree. My first birds were housed in “chicken tractors” and did excellent. Due to their personality and small size, they would make a great choice for your “Urban Chicken Project”!
I admit that I let them out in the yard whenever I am around….again that “hillbilly ambience” thing. They are smart and wily. Although small, I have never lost one to a hawk (knock wood). They know how to duck and cover, and they are light enough to take to flight for short distances if they have to. Again, they are a hardy breed and are known to live 12-16 years. (I will have to get back to you on that, since I have only had the pleasure of keeping them 4 seasons so far). They are excellent free range foragers. I have heard of them allowed to even live an almost a feral lifestyle and do well due to their confident nature..
The breed is an old established breed. They were originally developed in the first century and kept by the Romans. In feudal
England
, it is said that they were bred down from the Standard size Old English fighting game bird. It is rumored that the peasants were required to relinquish any chicken eggs to the feudal land owners….but not pheasant or quail eggs. By selectively breeding a small Old English chicken, they were able to claim the eggs to be pheasant eggs and snooker the Lords out of the eggs! Cool story Bro….but the internet also claims that this is not true. I dunno….I wasn’t there.
The birds that I originally obtained from the 4Her were “dubbed” as are required by the Standard of Perfection for showing Old English. Dubbing is the practice of cutting off the comb, wattle and earlobes of chickens. The images of my first rooster, “Thurston”, shows what a dubbed bird looks like. Dubbing has a long history among fanciers of Old English, American Game and Modern Game chickens. Not only is dubbing a tradition, but it is required in
ABA
and APA shows.
Personally I do not dub my birds. Since I am not showing my Old English….I don’t see the point. The breed has an attractive single comb, and that is why all of the birds I produced for myself have their God given combs and wattles in tact. I get ribbed by some of my buddies. I have kept Doberman Pinchers for decades. I LOVE the breed. All of my Dobies have cropped ears and docked tails. I don’t like the natural look of a Doberman. But then again a vet does that for me. I guess I am a big softie…but I would never take a pair of scissors to my chickens!
HERE'S A TIP
: If you are custom hatching eggs and selling chicks or mature birds at your local poultry swap, you will find this rare variety of OLD ENGLISH BANTAM to be an excellent addition to your product line! Due to A) their rarity, B) their gorgeous clear breasted GINGER RED appearance, C) their small size, Ginger Red Old English Bantams make for an easy impulse sale at your local swap meet. A display of several mature Ginger Red OE Bantams draw crowds and sell chicks at the sales. My personal experience is that my Ginger Reds are an asset in helping to defray some of the expenses of my poultry hobby.
I keep my birds in a tight ration of 1 rooster for every 3-4 hens, so as you can imagine I get EXCELLENT fertility.
I have shipped eggs through the mail many times before. So I know how to pack them in order that they arrive in one piece. (Just checkout some of the feedback from my customers) But as extra insurance for you, I will include an extra egg (or two if the girls cooperate) to cover the possibility of unforeseen damage in the mail. If the unthinkable does happen, contact me immediately. You will find me to be a very reasonable person to deal with and I will try hard to work things out for you.
It is important that you pay for your eggs QUICKLY after the auction ends. (These are live embryos and all). It is in YOUR best interest that I get the eggs in the mail as soon as possible. Remember that you will need to let the eggs set pointy side down for 24 hours BEFORE placing them in your incubator.
A NOTE ABOUT INCUBATORS: I have used various models over four decades of hatching eggs on and off. Still air units to models with fans. Table top models to expensive cabinet ones. Wafers to electronic thermostats. Turned ‘em by hand myself, used automatic turners, even let broody hens do the hard labor. You name it. All methods have pros and cons, and EVERYBODY has an opinion about what works best. The one thing I do know is that I HAVE NO CONTROL OVER YOUR INCUBATOR OR YOUR HATCHING PRACTICES. So please leave feedback based on
the condition of the eggs at arrival and my communications dealing with your order.
I can not be held responsible for your hatch.
A NOTE ABOUT SHIPPING EGGS IN THE MAIL: It is always better to buy your fertile hatching eggs locally and handle them yourself. However, this is not always possible. I have on occasion, had to turn to the internet to find the exact breed, color, or variety of bird that I am looking for. There are always added risks involved in this. The biggest obstacle is The United States Postal Service. It is not necessarily that the eggs arrive broken, but that they arrive SHAKEN. I will clearly mark your eggs as FRAGILE HANDLE WITH CARE. However much of today’s modern postal service is operated through the use of machines, conveyances, and automated conveyor belts. Those machines do not read the warning labels.
The biggest risk to your eggs is the formation of “saddle air sacks” due to too much shaking going on. Research this on the internet and you will find that saddle sacks can allow the embryos to develop, but cause difficulty with hatching due to the transition between deriving oxygen from the yolk sack to breathing with their lungs at the time of the hatch. Kinda like a scuba diver with only a half tank of air.
However, having said that, I personally have shipped many eggs through the mail system and had what I consider reasonable and expected hatch rates. As a matter of fact, I am happy to own some very rare chickens that I would have NEVER been able to obtain locally. For this I owe my thanks to the USPS.
I would encourage you to have your eggs held at the Post Office for Pick UP. This eliminates the final delivery leg in a hot, cold or over packed mail truck. If you would like, I can mark your eggs HOLD AT POST OFFICE FOR PICK UP. Just include your phone number and a note with these instructions with your PayPal payment.
NOTE: it is important that during the Winter season, that you pay attention to the weather conditions in your area BEFORE bidding on my hatching eggs. Winter storms and predicted temperature forecasts must be taken into consideration BEFORE bidding. If conditions warrant on my end, I will surround your eggs in Styrofoam and/or include a heat pack to protect these delicate live embryos. Beyond that I can not be responsible Winter shipping variables.
Above all, leave me feedback based on the condition of the eggs at arrival and my communications dealing with your order. Please DO NOT leave feedback based in whole or part on the outcome of the hatch.
SHIPPING TO THE LOWER 48 ONLY
Good Luck on the auction….and Good Luck with your hatch!